M111.955 loosing power when engine is warm (sorry writing in english)
Hello
I'm very sorry writing in English but Google translator is no good fron Finnish to Germany. I hope it's like this if not you can delete this thread.
I'm getting really desperate with my problem.
My car is loosing power when engine is warm. Engine light is on. When i clear all codes and start driving with cold engine it's working as it should be.
What i have done so far:
- changed MAF twice
- changed the camshaft position sensor + plug for the wire on the sensors end
- changed front lambda
- camshaft position controller (magnet)
- changed check valve (A 002 140 68 60)
- checked ECU for oil and there was none
- changed oil filter and oil
- changed fuel filter
- changed air filter
- purified purge valve (something to do with gas vapors)
- purified air shut off valve (it was stuck)
- checked air flow with following instructions http://sdrv.ms/1dduzbP
- purified throttle body
- checked pipes and stuff for air leaks
- changed cooling temperature sensor
- changed spark plugs
Official Star says that it is MAF that should be changed...again.
Another workshop says it is cam shaft position sensor...again.
One said that it could be catalytic converter and one said it could be crankshaft sensor.
Mechanical timing was one suggestion.
I dont' know what to do. Does somebody here know???
Any help is appreciated.
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Welcome janikannisto,
May I take the liberty of translating your article:
"Ich bin langsam am Verzweifeln mit meinem Problem. Mein Auto verliert
bei warmen Motor Leistung. MKL ist an. Wenn alle Fehlercodes ge
löscht werden und das Auto im kalten Zustand neu gestartet wird,
läuft es so, wie es soll.
Was ich bis jetzt gemacht habe:
- Luftmassenmesser zweimal getauscht
- Nockenwellensensor getauscht + "plug for the wire on the sensors end"?
- Lambdasonde vor KAT getauscht
- Nockenwellensteller (Magnet) getauscht
- Rückschlagventil Sekundärluft getauscht
- auf Öl im Kabelbaum kontrolliert -> kein Öl
- Kraftstofffilter getauscht
- Luftfilter getauscht
- Auslassventile gereinigt
- Reinigung Luftabsperrventil? (war fest/verdreckt)
- nach dieser Anleitung Luftstrom geprüft (http://sdrv.ms/1dduzbP)
- Reinigung Drosselklappe
- Dichtheit Ansaugtrakt geprüft
- Temperatursensor getauscht
- Zündkerzen getauscht
Die Stardiagnose sagt, dass es am Luftmassenmesser liegt und nocheinmal getauscht werden soll
Eine andere Werkstatt sagte, es sei der Nockenwellensensor.
Einer sagte, es liege am KAT, noch ein anderer vermutete den Kurbelwellensensor."
20 Antworten
Please check the age of the battery. You will find it on the left pole of ther battery. I think if you changed the battery everything will works
What about elongating of timing chain and/or jumped chain? (But perhaps not only effective if engine is warm.)
Pure assumption: camshaft adjusting only active when warm (I don't know), then elongated timing chain effective?
To be ensured: check timing!
I've heard about defective crankshaft position sensors which show wrong signals when getting warm - without diagnostic trouble code!
(Somone checked the removed sensor with a multimeter during heating with a camping stove.)
Harry
Vehicle is going to workshop today so i'll ask him to check that timing too.
Thank you for all so far!
Hallo,
i think in the DC-Motor from the fuelpump is the floating bearing bug
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Hi everybody. I'm feeling very good at the moment 🙂 And for a reason. Vehicle is repaired.
I had lot's of parts changed since i bought it. And...tadaaa...camshaft position sensor was the reason after all. It was changed one time but it was wrong one. From repair shop i got it said that it might be for a another MB but told me to try it. Well...it was for clk 230 and so on.
Thank you for all helping me with this!!!!! Case closed.
youre welcome