Idle Stuttering.. golf II 1.8 monojet (english)
hey guys.. sorry for intruding your forum!. please answer in english as i don't know a single german word 🙂
anyways.. i got some problems with my golf.. the idle is stuttering like mad.. the only thing i could think of is the lambda probe.. but that was changed 3 months ago 🙁
anyways.. i got some vids for you to see/and hear how she runs on idle
vid 1
vid 2
in addition to having the lambda probe changed, i've changed the following bits
blue/red/black temp sensor
distributorcap and rotor,
all spark cables
coil
sparkplugs
lambda probe
and its still stuttering and causing problems to me.. the car shakes like crazy!
and i've head that its possible to read out failcodes from the car. where is that done, and how, and what are the codes (where can i find them)
The car in question is a:
VW golf 1991 1.8GL (RP - monojet)
Regards from your pals in the north (norway)
Housey
73 Antworten
Zitat:
Original geschrieben von Housey
but for the record. WHERE do i find the place where i read out the fail codes?
Sorry forgotten ... the connection ecu is the yellow plug with 2 wires, you can see it on your photo:
http://www.vw-gfx.com/dump/plugg.jpg
in the right lower corner
Zitat:
Original geschrieben von asis
Sorry forgotten ... the connection ecu is the yellow plug with 2 wires, you can see it on your photo:
http://www.vw-gfx.com/dump/plugg.jpg
in the right lower corner
okei. that is the one i should ground for 5 seconds ?
then what? (guess i'm stupid 🙂)
Zitat:
Original geschrieben von Housey
well, the car is only stuttering at idle, it works fine when i'm driving it.. no problems there, just the idle and the extreme fuel use..
1.2L pr 10km ............
The vids sounds not like a problem by the monojet.
Once again: You should check the timing of your camshaft!
If the camshaft is correctly adjusted, check again all ignition parts. Possible would be also a problem with an intake- or exhaust valve. Have you checked the compression?
Zitat:
Original geschrieben von Housey
okei. that is the one i should ground for 5 seconds ?
then what? (guess i'm stupid 🙂)
First you connect the LED to the yellow wire and battery +.
Then you connect the yellow wire for 10 seconds to battery -.
When the connection to battery - is opened the LED starts blinking.
Have you checked the vakuum line?
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well. i might have found the problem though 🙂
a vakuum leak 🙁
was going to post this yesterday, but something happend to my computer as i was trensferring pics from man cam to my computer.. just went black and never came back on 🙁
i'll post some pics later today, when i get home from work.. just gotta reinstall on a new blank disc!
then i'll tell you all about it! (havn't gotten the time to change the vakuum line..) .. so its still stuttering.
Regards
Dan "theViking"
Zitat:
Original geschrieben von Housey
well. i might have found the problem though 🙂
nice to hear 🙂
Zitat:
Original geschrieben von asis
nice to hear 🙂
i don't really know if thats the problem though.. gonna get a new vakkumline.. €10 says it its not the problem!
anyways... you can in the picture underneath here see what vakuumline i'm talking about:
http://www.vw-gfx.com/dump/jord2.jpg
looks like the vakummline to the distributor, could be promising.😉
the pic i posted was from the vakuumline to the brake servo 🙂 from the exhaust manifold 🙂
anyways.. here's a pic of the "old" rubberhose that i changed
http://www.vw-gfx.com/dump/1001-01.jpg
and i can tell that this was NOT the problem 🙁
this is starting to bug me.. was at my local vag shop.. they thought it was this hose aswell... but turned out not to be that one..
damnit!
Regards
Dan "theViking"
Zitat:
Original geschrieben von Housey
anyways.. here's a pic of the "old" rubberhose that i changed
and i can tell that this was NOT the problem 🙁
Well, there are a lot of hoses around the engine ;-)
Dismount the right side of the new hose and put something in it.
Then start the engine to check if there's an additional leak in the hoses to the
breake servo.
Are there any error codes in the ECU?
Zitat:
Original geschrieben von Gen.Golf.II
Well, there are a lot of hoses around the engine ;-)
Dismount the right side of the new hose and put something in it.
Then start the engine to check if there's an additional leak in the hoses to the
breake servo.Are there any error codes in the ECU?
i'm sorry,, havn't been able to read out the error codes 🙁
according to my local vag dealer.. the only thing they could read out from the car was the blue temp sensor and lambda 🙁
but i'm gonna go outside and try again this evening.. i will not give up!
Forget the error-codes. These are very unreliable. Very improbably that you find the error this way. Particularly not if the error lies not by the mono jet 😉
Zitat:
Original geschrieben von Housey
... i will not give up!
Wait till the outside temperatures are friendlier.🙂
Hello Housey,
i´m very sure that your vacuum hose between the "Sucking in Bridge" :-) and the Brake-Servo is defectively ! There is often a tear at the underside of the hose and then you have a wrong air intake to the Engine. The result is that the idle is badly, it sounds like the engine was running at 3 Cylinders, instead of 4. The car drives fine, but only the idle ( 850 - 950 RPM ) is bad, because the connect from the rubber hose at the bridge sucks in wrong air an the cylinder runs too lean. The Injection with the lambda probe seized the lean burn exhaust gas and the Control unit adapt the Inject-quantity, so the Engine use more Fuel ! I speak from experience, i had the problem 2 times in the past ! Dismount the vacuum line and check it completely, particularly the part with the rubber tube in the break.
Or the flange of the monojet is defect ! Mounting error ??? Material error ???
Also check the Brake Servo, possibly its leaky there and not at the hose and/or the line !
Forget the Fail Codes !
I hope you will find the error immediately with my bad english
Greetings
Karsten
if it only was that easy!..
well.. the flange between the monojet and the intake is in GOOD shape.. no problems there..
and i bought a NEW hose.. and that didn't help either.. so i'm back to scratch now :/
sitting here wondering if there is a way to TEST if the lambda actually works.. there COULD be a broken wire someplace.. and that should be changable shouldnt it ?
Regards
Dan "theViking"
oh.. and a pic of my car if you wanna see it 🙂
http://www.vw-gfx.com/dump/015.jpg