VW Käfer Cabriolet 1302S -72 plötzlich kein Leerlauf?
Hi guys & dolls,
My Cabriolet 1302S -72 has lots of new parts in engine and it was running so well until about a week ago, when it started to stall when stopping at traffic lights etc. The engine doesn't run evenly but started to nick back and forth. My Käfer-Guru is on vacation, what would you recommend as the first easy steps to check?
20 Antworten
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@Robomike schrieb am 30. Juli 2019 um 11:18:02 Uhr:
Hm, can't see nothing unusual in the carburetor pics, except the fact you're missing the vacuum ignition timing adjustment.
But a different point: there seems to be a little mechanical force to the cables plugged into the distributor cap. Maybe there is one cable loose ad the machine is only running on three cylinders when ideling? With higher rpms the spark is somewhat stronger and can jump a bigger gap...Michael
Thanks Michael,
I've pushed them all in and it had no effect, but indeed it sounds like all the cylinders are not running properly. Funny enough, as a cold engine the ideling sounds almost perfect but after 200m driving the engine stalls at the first traffic light
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@Robomike schrieb am 29. Juli 2019 um 21:19:28 Uhr:
Check for false (inleaked) air.
Tubes and connections at the carburetor, membrane of the vacuum actuator, the sealings between intake pipe and head....
Possibly you may use some inflammable brake cleaner spray or so to find leaks. While spraying onto suspicious parts the machine will change its rpm if the gas is sucked in, but be careful not to burn down the car.Michael
This advice is a bit over my very basic skills. I'm more sort of a driver than mechanic, at least so far...
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@Kupla schrieb am 30. Juli 2019 um 13:24:06 Uhr:
Fix#1 done. I can hear the click so I guess I should not unscrew the solenoid. My multimeter shows 111 ohms but then again I'm a rookie with that one. This option can probabably be written off? Thanks!
Resistance sounds good, never measured before by myself, but 110 ohms results in about 15-20 watts consumption sounds correct. As you hear the clicks, don't matter, valve will do it's job.
Is it possible that only the "start-automatic" is not adjusted properly?
With a cold engine the idle is good and after 200m the engine stalls. Perhaps the start-automatic opens too early?
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@Peter_K2 schrieb am 31. Juli 2019 um 09:06:03 Uhr:
Is it possible that only the "start-automatic" is not adjusted properly?
With a cold engine the idle is good and after 200m the engine stalls. Perhaps the start-automatic opens too early?
Hi Peter,
that really sounds very fitting to my case. Would you know how to fix the opening?
Well, opening after a short time is the expected behaviour, because the air–fuel ratio (AFR) is needed to be lowered only for a cold machine. So, if the ideling afterwards (when the machine is on nominal temperature) is okay again, then Peters suggestion is highly relevant, but if the error persists it should be something different. Your pictures show the open state.
On the other hand, when ideling with active automatic choke is okay (immediately after startup and therefore with low AFR), this could mean something is wrong with the AFR modulation in general. This could be
- as mentioned before: false air
- wrong carburetor settings
- dirt in carburetor is blocking a nozzle
- ...
But it's hard to give a proper advice at this point. As a newbie to this stuff you can easily make it worse, and success is'nt guaranteed.... it's not even sure the failure is caused there. A beetles machine tries to run anyway if there's enough gas and a spark. An ignition malfunction might still be a reason for faulty ideling.
Does it have lower power as usual while driving? Did you notice backfires, sputters, missing performance? After a ride, are there parts which are too hot to touch in the engine bay? If your answers are all "no" it's at least possibly not a very serious problem.
Michael