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Kugelumlauflenkung, recirculating ball steering gear - Info Sammlung

Themenstarteram 3. Oktober 2012 um 22:21

Hi,

irgendwie musste ich vorher an Kugelumlauflenkungen denken und dachte mir. Machst mal ne Info Sammlung, das kann jemand bestimmt später mal brauchen.

Ich werd hier immer mal wieder Sachen hochladen wenn ich sie finde.

Anfangen wollen wir mal mit was deutschem.

Motor Klassik und Kugelumlauflenkung

Beste Antwort im Thema
Themenstarteram 3. Oktober 2012 um 22:21

Hi,

irgendwie musste ich vorher an Kugelumlauflenkungen denken und dachte mir. Machst mal ne Info Sammlung, das kann jemand bestimmt später mal brauchen.

Ich werd hier immer mal wieder Sachen hochladen wenn ich sie finde.

Anfangen wollen wir mal mit was deutschem.

Motor Klassik und Kugelumlauflenkung

21 weitere Antworten
Ähnliche Themen
21 Antworten
Themenstarteram 3. Oktober 2012 um 22:21

Hi,

irgendwie musste ich vorher an Kugelumlauflenkungen denken und dachte mir. Machst mal ne Info Sammlung, das kann jemand bestimmt später mal brauchen.

Ich werd hier immer mal wieder Sachen hochladen wenn ich sie finde.

Anfangen wollen wir mal mit was deutschem.

Motor Klassik und Kugelumlauflenkung

Viele weitere Sachen finden sich im Rest dieses 2 seitigen Threads.

Link zum vollen Thread

Themenstarteram 3. Oktober 2012 um 22:38

Und hier noch was von Opel von 1962 - Link

(was auch immer ein Opel P Modell sein mag :D)

P.S.: kann mir das jemand geschickt als PDF drucken? Bei der Druckvorschau ist das zwar passgenau mit den Seiten, aber beim richtigen PDF drucken verschiebst diese dann

Und wer dachte die Kugelumlauflenkung sei nur ein Thema fürs alte Eisen.

Link

tedrive Kugelumlauflenkung mit aktiver Spurhalteassistenz für Nutzfahrzeuge

Interessanter Faden. :)

How Stuff Works weiss da auch immer prima Sachen.

Themenstarteram 7. Oktober 2012 um 20:44

Damit man mal wenigstens auf die Sachen zeigen kann. En Bild von einer, so wie sie wohl bei vielen GM und Ford zum Einsatz kam.

Steering-gear
Themenstarteram 11. Oktober 2012 um 19:10

Und noch ein paar Sachen.

Bilder sind spezifisch für die Saginaw 800 Steering Boxes

Von Hemmings

Saginaw Steering Boxes - Reducing arm fatigue for over 40 years

Feature Article from Hemmings Motor News

May, 2007 - Jim O'Clair

Few mechanical parts have enjoyed a production life longer than the Saginaw power steering gearbox. First introduced in the early Sixties on full-size Oldsmobiles, the Saginaw gearbox has gone through many internal updates; however, it remained virtually the same and was the basis for General Motors power steering systems until the advent of rack and pinion steering. In some GM trucks, this unit is still used today. Saginaw gearboxes were also used in AMCs, Jeeps, Internationals and several Ford models; however, the Ford units will not interchange with any of the other applications.

The Saginaw gearbox is a rotary-valve type unit using recirculating ball bearings. They are referred to as recirculated ball-type because they use the same ball bearings on both the worm gear and the sector gear to reduce friction within the housing. You will often see this gearbox referred to as an "800" or "605" unit. The only major difference between these two units is how the pitman shaft is held into the unit. An 800 unit has a four-bolt cover on the top of the unit (the end of the shaft opposite the pitman arm spline). The 605 units use a single snap ring that holds a round cover into the top of the housing. GM also used two gearboxes, depending on the weight and size of the model. Station wagons, full-size cars and large front-wheel-drive cars used a heavy-duty gearbox usually identified by GM part number 5687962. These units had a 3.5-inch piston diameter, and the pitman shaft will turn anywhere from 3.5 to four turns between fully locked left and fully locked right. These units were rated at a 17.5:1 steering ratio. Mid-size and smaller models used a steering box tagged 5691676, and these units used a 3-inch piston. The travel on the smaller-piston unit was three to 3.5 turns lock to lock. The mid-size gearboxes were rated at a 14.4:1 steering ratio. Both the 3.5-inch and the 3-inch-bore gearboxes have a .813-inch input shaft diameter, and most will have 31 splines on the input shaft. You can substitute between both of these units. Aside from the mounting bolt pattern (most are 4-bolt mount but there are two different three-bolt mounts, as well), these units are all interchangeable. The more responsive 14.4:1 ratio gearboxes replaced the earlier 17.5:1 ratio boxes in most models by 1973. This is a good thing to remember when you begin your search for a replacement.

You can locate one of the basic Saginaw "800" series power steering boxes in one of these vehicles:

1964-'76 AMC

1961-'76 Cadillac, including

1963-'76 Eldorado

1964-'76 Buick and Pontiac full-size cars and Riviera

1973-'76 Regal

1975-'76 Skyhawk, Seville, Monza and Starfire

1965-'76 Chevrolet full-size cars

1967-'76 Camaro and 1968-'76 Nova

1964-'76 Chevelle, Cutlass, GTO, Grand Prix, Lemans, Ventura and Tempest

1971-'76 Vega and 1975 Pontiac Astre

1960-'76 Oldsmobile full-size cars including 1966-'76 Tornado

1971-'76 Jeep Cherokee, Wagoneer, Gladiator and J-series pickups

1972-'75 International Scout and Traveler

Many enthusiasts have also found that an easy way to upgrade the handling on your car is to convert to a Saginaw quick-ratio power-steering box. These were original equipment on some mid-size models, and they can be transplanted into most other GM vehicles, if you can locate one from your local pick-a-part. These gearboxes will improve the steering and handling for your car with a more responsive lower gear ratio and also reduce the steering wheel travel to 2.25 to three turns.

The 1969-'76 Camaros as well as 1964-'76 Chevelles, Malibus and Monte Carlos also used an optional quick ratio 12.7:1 unit, which will interchange with the higher ratio gearboxes. These are very popular units because they are an easy bolt-in performance conversion. The 1982-'96 S-10 pickups used a 14.0:1 ratio "605" series gearbox, which will interchange into earlier vehicles with some modification. Another option is to use late-model G or F Body units. They were original equipment on 1983-'88 Monte Carlo, 1983-'84 Hurst Olds, 1985-'87 Olds 442, and 1984-'87 Buick Grand National or T-Type. They are also 12.7:1 units and a little more difficult to find, but can be identified by a "YA" marking on the end cap (opposite where the steering column attaches) or by searching for cars with the F41 or Z65 suspension package. All of the Monte Carlo SS cars had these options. These units will reduce steering wheel revolutions from lock to lock down to 2.25 to 2.75 turns.

An important thing to remember when interchanging Saginaw gearboxes is to use your original pitman arm and idler arm if possible, to maintain the proper steering geometry. Different body styles have different length idler and pitman arms; for example, the F body arms are longer than those in an A or G body and could cause alignment and front-end clearance problems if used in different body styles. When interchanging between earlier and later GM gearboxes, you will notice the power steering hose fittings are not the same. Later fittings are metric and incorporate an O-ring, whereas all Sixties and most early Seventies units used the standard inverted-flare fittings. Auto parts stores sell standard thread to metric thread adapters in several different sizes that allow you to use your original hoses with the later-design metric gearboxes. The rag joint or steering gear coupler may also have to be changed. These can be obtained with the gearbox when being pulled from the donor car, or new ones are still available from the GM dealerships. The coupler off a 1977-and-up Chevy pickup (GM part number 7826542) works just fine to adapt the early-style steering shaft to the later model gearbox. Rag joints are also available from Lares Corporation, which can assist you with interchangeability questions and the purchase of freshly remanufactured power steering components as well.

Lares Corporation 1-800-334-5749

Finding a replacement gearbox for your General Motors car can be very easy because of the abundance of original units available that will readily interchange. Completing an upgrade to a quick ratio steering gearbox can also give your ride some additional handling and make a classic drive like a newer model.

-----------------------------------------------

Unbekannte Quelle:

CHEVROLET A-CAR FAST RATIO POWER STEERING GEAR UPGRADE

INTRODUCTION

This paper is written to assist Chevrolet A-car owners in locating parts and components that can be used to install a fast ratio steering gear in their vehicle.

Most Chevelle A-car vehicles that were built in the 1964 through 1974 time frame came from the factory with Saginaw Steering Gear Division model 700 power steering gears. Most had gear ratios in the 15:1 range. A listing of 1964 through 1974 Chevelle power steering gears with ratios, efforts, t-bar size, and travel is available from the websight where you obtained this paper or from the author.

With modern radial tires and performance suspension enhancements, many enthusiasts would like to improve their steering gear ratio to a rapid 12.7:1. The steering ratio of a steering gear is the number of degrees that you rotate the steering wheel (and therefore the gear input shaft) in order for the output shaft to rotate one degree. The lower the ratio number, the faster the steering. This paper is written to assist Chevrolet Chevelle, El Camino, and Monte Carlo enthusiasts in swapping their slower ratio power steering gears for a fast ratio 12.7:1 model 700 power steering gear. Please note, there is a new Saginaw model 600 power steering gear that is also available with a 12.7:1 ratio. However, this gear is not interchangeable with the model 700 gear.

Recommended replacement model 700, 12.7:1 ratio, Saginaw recirculating ball gears are listed on the following Excel spread sheets:

1985 – 1996 Caprice, Monte Carlo, & Buick Fast Ratio Gears

1992-98 Jeep Grand Cherokee Fast Ratio Gears

I do not recommend Camaro fast ratio gears because they have restricted travel and generally have high steering efforts. They can be disassembled and the travel restrictors removed but that is best left to someone very familiar with rebuilding Saginaw recirculating ball steering gears.

 

THE SAGINAW RECIRCULATING BALL POWER STEERING GEAR

The Delphi Saginaw Steering Systems (formerly Saginaw Steering Gear Division, GMC) recirculating ball, model 700, integral power steering gear is a marvel of longevity. The basic concept and most major components that make up the gear assembly started production in the early 1960s and are still being manufactured today.

There are a couple of interface areas that have remained the same from 1964 to the present. Let’s look at the attachment areas that you will not have to worry about if you decide to make a fast ratio gear installation. The three tapped gear mounting holes are in the same location and are the same thread (7/16-14 UNC) all the way from the middle 1960’s right through today! The pitman shaft serrations and the pitman arm lock nut are still the same. So this gear will bolt up right to your frame and your power steering pitman arm and steering linkage will bolt right on as well.

Some of the changes that did occur throughout the years of production are as follows:

1). The input shaft was reduced in diameter from 13/16 inch OD to ¾ inch OD in 1977.

2). Starting with the 1980 model year, the inlet and outlet ports on the gear were converted from conventional 45 degree flare fittings with 5/8-18 UNF and 11/16-18 UNF female ports to o-ring connections with 16x1.5mm and 18x1.5mm female ports.

All of the fast ratio steering gears that we are looking to swap into our A-cars were produced between 1982 and 1998. Therefore, in order to install a fast ratio gear in your car, you will need to accommodate the above listed changes.

Let’s review the interface parts one by one:

GEAR INPUT SHAFT TO FLEXIBLE COUPLING

The original steering gear in the 1964-1974 A-car had a 13/16 inch OD input shaft with splines and a flat. The new fast ratio gear has a ¾ inch OD input shaft. We will need a new flexible coupling to connect to the gear. The following vehicles were produced with flexible couplings that will attach to the new gear:

1977 thru 1982 Chevrolet and GMC C/K (2 wheel and 4 wheel drive) Pickup Trucks

1977 and 1978 Camaro, Firebird, and Nova

1979 Nova

1983 thru 1986 Chevrolet and GMC C (2 wheel drive only) Pickup Trucks

I have found a flexible coupling in the GM parts system that will connect to a ¾ input shaft. It is available through GM dealers. It is part number 7826542. It is fairly expensive (around $80 list) but it is brand new.

Be sure to get the attaching pinch bolt, nuts, and lock washers when you purchase the flexible coupling. Flexible couplings attach to the steering gear with a special pinch bolt (#7807271). This bolt can be purchased from any GM dealer. Make sure that you use this correct bolt to fasten the flexible coupling to the gear. Please note, if the column flange is also detachable, you may require still another one of these special pinch bolts.

STEERING COLUMN TO FLEXIBLE COUPLING

Another thing that we have to take into account is that the A-car steering column and the connection to the flexible coupling went through a couple of design changes between 1964 and 1974. These differences will also need to be addressed.

1964, 65, 66 STEERING COLUMNS

The 1964 - 66 Chevelle steering columns had a long steering shaft that extended from the end of the steering column down toward the steering gear. Some of them had a detachable column flange, others had a stamped flange that was staked in place. The flexible coupling on the gear bolted to it. This early flexible coupling was different from new couplings in that it had two different diameter stop pins and the two special 5/16-24 UNF attaching bolts. The newer flexible couplings have different sized attaching bolts (one 5/16-24 UNF and the other a 3/8-24 UNF) along with equal sized stop pins.

In order to attach the new flexible coupling to the old flange you have two areas that require modifications. One involves the mounting bolts; the other requires additional clearance to one of the stop pins.

The original A-car flexible coupling had two special 5/16-24 UNF attaching bolts. Our new flexible coupling has one large 3/8-24 UNF coupling bolt and one that is the same design (5/16-24) as the bolts in our original coupling. My choice is to drill out one hole on the column flange so that it can accept the special 3/8-24 bolt on the new coupling.

THE FOLLOWING APPLIES TO A DETACHABLE FLANGE:

Place the column flange on a table so that the face that mounts to the flexible coupling is down. Place the pinch bolt slot at the 12 o’clock position. You want to drill out the hole that is at the 9 o’clock position to 0.381 diameter. Do not enlarge the hole too much. The 3/8-24 bolt on the new flexible coupling has a fairly narrow shoulder that must seat against the column flange. Just enlarge the hole until the threads on the 3/8-24 bolt just pass through. This is the modification I prefer because now the column flange will only assemble to the flexible coupling one way. You don’t run the risk of having your steering column attached upside down.

The other choice is to remove the larger bolt (the 3/8-24) from the new coupling and replace it with a one of the special 5/16-24 bolts that you can remove from your original flex coupling. Use the original four tanged retainer to keep the bolt in place. Since the column flange can now be assembled either way, you now have to remember that the 35 year old 5/16-24 bolt goes into the hole located at the 9 o’clock position on the column flange.

The last modification that you will have to make is to open up one stop pin clearance notch on the column flange. With the column flange in the same position describe above; take a look at the stop pin clearance notch located at the 6 o’clock position. You will need to take a file or a high speed grinding tool and increase the size of the notch by 0.070 inch around its entire shape. (See Figure #1). This will gain you clearance around the large rivet on the new coupling.

THE FOLLOWING APPLIES TO A STAKED, STAMPED FLANGE:

You basically are going to modify this stamped flange similar to the instructions above for the detachable flange. However, you will be working from the coupling side of the flange (opposite from the detachable instructions). You will probably have to remove the column in order to gain access to the stamped flange. You will first have to open up the smaller of the two stop pin notches by the same 0.070 inch (same as above). Now, after opening up the stop pin notch and looking at the flange from the coupling side, open up the bolt hose counterclockwise from the notch to 0.381 diameter.

1967 THROUGH 1974 STEERING COLUMNS

These Chevelle steering columns either had long, collapsible, steering shafts that extended down to the gear from the end of the steering column or they had separate, intermediate steering shafts that bolted to the column up by the dash. In either case, both type shafts have column flanges that attach to the flexible coupling. These column flanges should have two different sized bolt holes and clearance notches for two large rivets. Therefore they should be compatible with your new flexible coupling without any modifications. (See Figure #2)

POWER STEERING PUMP – PRESSURES AND FLOWS

Where the Saginaw model 700 gear is known for its longevity, the Saginaw power steering P-pump has been around an equally long time. You most likely want to use your original pump with its reservoir and pulley. The good news is that your power steering pump can be quite easily upgraded for pressure and flow to work with your new fast ratio gear. The fitting on the back of the pump regulates the amount of oil flow from the pump. The flow control plunger, (which is inside the pump directly behind the fitting) controls the pressure relief. These parts are very interchangeable between various Saginaw P-pumps.

The Chevelle power steering pumps (before 1970) had relatively low pressure relief settings (950 psi). With modern wide tires and a fast steering ratio steering gear, you will probably want to increase the pressure relief setting of your pump. 1970 and later pumps had pressure relief settings of 1400 psi, so they should be very adequate.

Also, from 1964 through 1969 the Chevrolet power steering pump outlet incorporated a male fitting and therefore required a pressure hose with a female nut to connect to it. Starting in 1970 the fitting was converted to a 5/8-18 UNF female port with a 45 degree flare seat (the same as the rest of GM). Since your new fast ratio gear has metric ports you might even consider getting rid of either of the previous fittings that you have in your original pump and converting to a 16x1.5mm metric discharge fitting as well.

If you can obtain the pump that originally came with your fast ratio steering gear, this is the safest and best approach toward obtaining the discharge fitting and the flow control plunger that will give adequate flows and pressures for your steering system.

 

Another approach is find a P-pump used in Chevrolet and GMC C/K trucks that were built after 1979. Also the new lines of GM light duty pickups and SUV vehicles have P-pumps that can be used. These are the trucks with Chevrolet 4.3L V6, small block, or big block V8s. These pumps will all have 16x1.5mm metric discharge fittings.

 

However, if you have an early P-pump (1964 through 1969) and still want a 5/8-18 UNF female fitting with a 1400 psi pressure relief , you will need to find a P-pump from a 1976 through 1979 four wheel drive K-truck (not the two wheel drive C-truck).

Once you have the pump that you want, you will need to remove the discharge fitting that screws into the back of the pump. Then, you need to probe inside the discharge cavity and using a magnet or just tipping the pump you should be able to remove the flow control plunger (See Figure #3). This is the device that sets the pressure relief and it will interchange right into your original pump. Make sure that you install it correctly. First assemble the spring then the flow control plunger. Note, make sure that you orient the plunger so that the screen side of the plunger goes into the pump first.

 

POWER STEERING HOSES

I don’t have any expertise with aftermarket power steering hoses. So I am not familiar with what types of end configurations, bends, etc that are available. If you are able to get the set of hoses from the vehicle that supplied your fast ratio gear, you might get lucky. They just might fit your car!!! So this is one area that I am going to have to leave you to your own means.

The most straightforward approach would be to use power steering hoses with metric fittings that screw directly into the ports of your fast ratio gear. Modify your pump as described earlier to also use a metric female discharge fitting.

However, if you want to remain with 45 degree flare fittings, there are adapters that can convert the female metric gear ports (18x1.5mm high pressure port – 16x1.5mm low pressure return line port) to 45 degree flare ports. As described in the pump section, you can quite easily modify your pump for either a female 16x1.5mm o-ring port or to a female 5/8-18 UNF 45 degree flare port by finding the appropriate pickup truck P-pump.

 

SOME PARTING WORDS

I strongly recommend refilling your power steering system with genuine GM power steering fluid. There are fluids that are labeled power steering fluid, but the only one used by General Motors as original factory fill is the one I recommend. The amber colored fluid, available from any GM dealer was specifically formulated to work in the Saginaw power steering pump. For maximum durability use GM steering fluid (GM #1050017 32oz).

I have (to the best of my ability) gathered the following information from engineering drawings and by speaking to people that worked on the power steering systems used in your Chevrolet A-car. Please be aware, a lot of this information is well over 30 years old. Also, you should always follow procedures, instructions, and torque recommendations provided in shop manuals and other reliable sources when assembling and disassembling the components in your power steering system.

 

A FINAL PARTING WORD

Please don’t go running for a lawyer to sue my butt if you purchase a cheap donor part and something doesn’t work exactly as I described. In fact, if you have a problem, do other Chevelle and Elky owners a favor and be sure to get back with me so I can update this information and keep it as accurate as possible.

E-800gear
800-808-exploded-view
Servo Pumpe Anbau
Themenstarteram 11. Oktober 2012 um 19:15

This is from the 1981 Chevrolet Passenger Car and Light Duty Truck Unit Repair (Overhaul) Manual, telling you how to repair and overhaul the GM Saginaw 800 Power Steering gear

1981 Chevrolet 01
1981 Chevrolet 02
1981 Chevrolet 03
+7
Themenstarteram 11. Oktober 2012 um 19:24

Und hier ein schöner Informativer Text der US Army über Lenkungssystem im allgemeinen, bzw jede Mögliche Art von Fahrzeuglenkung wird erklärt

Themenstarteram 11. Oktober 2012 um 19:27

Zum Motorklassik Artikel gehören eigentlich noch diese Bilder und der entsprechende Text - Siehe Ende der PDF

Themenstarteram 12. Oktober 2012 um 20:24

ach und wenn ich schon dabei bin, dann hier noch ein Artikel vom Lenkungs Guru Damon Lee

Power Steering Basics for Vintage Chevelles

There are some enthusiasts who insist that a hot rod be bare bones and basic-no power windows, no air conditioning, no power steering. That's fine, but anyone who drives a musclecar with manual steering on a regular basis knows what a pain it can be just getting into a parking space, not to mention the fact that manual steering boxes on '60s cars usually came with very slow steering ratios. Fortunately there is a lot of interchangeability among the steering boxes found on GM cars over the years, so upgrading to a power box is fairly simple.

That's especially true for Chevelles, which accept one of the more popular GM power boxes-the Saginaw 800. This box was used in various incarnations under a variety of full-size and intermediate GM vehicles, from A- and G-Body Chevelles and Monte Carlos to Second- and Third-Generation F-Bodies and even some trucks. We recently added power steering to a small block powered '65 Chevelle using a rebuilt 800 box from Classic Performance Products (CPP). In fact, CPP supplied us with all the parts we needed for the swap, from the box and pump to the necessary brackets and pulleys. Depending on your particular application and engine, a power steering conversion like this can range from a simple afternoon operation to a frustrating chore and parts hunt. We're passing along the lessons we learned hoping that it will make your swap a little easier, whether you buy new parts, scrounge for used stuff, or mix and match a little of each. Keep in mind, however, that we're concentrating on parts that are readily available, and we're not concerning ourselves with numbers-matching originality.

STEERING BOX

Like we said before, the Saginaw 800 box can be found in a wide variety of GM cars. Though the basic design remained the same through the years, there are some differences to watch for. For starters, some cases are held to the frame with three bolts, while others use four. Either style will work, but some four-bolt cases have a little extra casting on the upper rear bolt boss that has to be ground off so the box will fit properly. Also, early 800 6oxes use flare hose fittings, while later versions have metric O-ring fittings. You want to make sure you have the appropriate hoses for the box you get. And finally, some 800 boxes have 13/16-inch, 36-spline input shafts, while others use 3/4-inch, 30-spline shafts.

You'll want to make sure the size and spline count of your rag joint coupler matches the one on your box.

In addition to the external differences, Saginaw 800 boxes came with a plethora of internal variations depending on their original application. The choices are staggering and include variances in steering ratios, tension, and internal steering stops. To simplify matters, Classic Performance Products offers three boxes: a stock-ratio box, a quick-ratio unit, and one that falls somewhere in-between. Quick-ratio boxes have become popular with enthusiasts who want to wring as much handling prowess out of their cars as possible, but we've also talked to folks who find them a little too jittery. The intermediate ratio (approximately 3.5 turns lock-to-lock) seems to provide a happy medium of improved handling and highway comfort. Of course, the ultimate choice is up to you.

PITMAN ARM

In addition to a power steering box, you'll need a Pitman arm to go with it. The power steering Pitman arm differs from a manual steering part. In fact, there are two variations of power steering Pitman arms to go with the different centerlinks found in early A-Bodies-one has a larger boss and hole on the small end that attaches to the tapered stud on the centerlink. You'll want to compare your new Pitman arm to your old one to make sure it properly matches the centerlink in your car.

STEERING PUMP

Chevelles came equipped with many different power steering pumps over the years, including an unusual pump with a remote reservoir used on big-blocks from 1965-69. Aside from the big-block unit, there are only a couple of pump designs that you're likely to find rebuilders and restoration companies offering today. The biggest difference with these is in the reservoirs. Earlier pumps use a small reservoir with a distinct filler neck, while the newer (and more common) reservoir is slightly larger with more of a teardrop shape. And just like steering boxes, later-model pumps (typically post-'80) use metric fittings. We used the older, smaller unit on our swap, but it appears that the teardrop-shaped pump will fit, too. If price is not an issue, several aftermarket companies also offer compact, street-rod-style pumps with remote reservoirs.

PUMP BRACKETS

Here's where things get a little tricky, especially on early ('64-68) Chevelles with driver-side mounted alternators. If you've got a stock engine with original exhaust manifolds, you'll obviously be able to use original-style pump brackets without many headaches. But for cars with headers, things may not fall into place so easily. On our car, which has a 327 with a short water pump and a 350-style balancer, we were able to use the factory-style brackets, but we had to modify our alternator bracket to properly mount the upper pump bracket (see photos for details). By the time you read this, CPP should be offering an alternator bracket that will help you avoid the dilemma we faced. Similar modifications might work for big-block Chevelles with headers, but we weren't able to try it ourselves before going to print. Of course, several styles of aftermarket power steering pump brackets are also available, but most require the use of a compact aftermarket pump or the relocation of the alternator (to the inside of the valve cover or to the passenger side of the engine) to avoid belt or bracket interference. Others will work if you convert to a long water pump.

PULLEYS AND HOSES

Here's another area where there isn't always a one-size-fits-all solution. Naturally, you'll need a two- or three-groove crank pulley if you don't have one already. But finding the right steering pump pulley may require some trial-and-error fitting. We tried a couple of different single-groove pulleys before achieving the belt alignment we needed with a dual-groove unit from CPP. You've also got several options for power steering hoses, including having custom hoses made, searching for off-the-shelf hoses, or buying OEM-style hoses from restoration suppliers. We took the easy route and used new hoses from CPP.

CONCLUSION Though it may seem like a simple upgrade, converting your Chevelle to power steering isn't always a cut-and-dried procedure, especially on modified cars. Our suggestion would be to trial fit the power steering pump before you take anything else apart. Once you've got the pump fit, everything else should be pretty straightforward. With a few of these tips and a little persistence, you should be in good shape.

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Lustigerweise find ich genau den Artikel an den ich im Bezug Kugelumlauflenkung denken muss nicht mehr. Alles mögliche andere nur nicht das was ich eigentlich posten wollte.

Soll ich mal weitersuchen oder interessiert euch das gar nich?

Nettes Thema.

Themenstarteram 12. Oktober 2012 um 22:01

^^ ;)

Sehr gut!

Wenn ich das richtig verstehe stelle ich das Lenkspiel des Lenkgetriebes über die Einstellschraube oben auf dem Getreibe ein.

Kann mir nun noch jemand erklären warum mein Lenkgetriebe bei Volleinschlag ganz erbärmlich quietscht? Bzw. Wie ich dieses Quietschen beseitigen kann?

Zwar hat einer meiner Nachbarn gesagt "Das ist ganz normal..." Allerdings steht sein vor wenigen Wochen gekaufter 56er DeVille auch (genau wie seine drei Jaguars) das ganze Jahr bei Regen und Schnee unter offenem Himmel... Aber was ich davon halte brauche ich hier nicht näher zu erläutern...

Themenstarteram 15. Oktober 2012 um 9:14

Zitat:

Original geschrieben von T-Bird70

das Lenkspiel des Lenkgetriebes über die Einstellschraube oben auf dem Getreibe ein.

nicht wenn man dem MotorKlassik Artikel glauben darf.

Zitat:

Kann mir nun noch jemand erklären warum mein Lenkgetriebe bei Volleinschlag ganz erbärmlich quietscht?

Servopumpen qietschen unter Volllast, aber Lenkgetriebe sind eigentlich ganz flüster leise.

 

mea culpa! Natürlich die Pumpe nicht das Getriebe!

Bleibt die Frage wie das Geräusch beseitigt werden kann!

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